Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Monday, February 1, 2010
Chablis
In the north most district of the Burgundy region in France lays Chablis, the town that gave its name to one of the most famous white wines. Situated on the eastern edge of the Paris Basin its Kimmeridge soil imparts a mineral, flinty note to the wines produced. The cool climate of Chablis also enables winemakers to produce Chardonnays with a more acidity taste, thus defining the distinctive Chardonnay produced in Chablis.
Chablis is composed of 4308 ha of vines, consisting 569ha of Petit Chablis, 2895 ha of Chablis, 743 ha of Premiers Crus and 101 ha of Grand Crus. This classification of the Chablis vines was designated by the Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). At the top of the classification are 7 Grand Cru vineyards, followed by Premier Cru vineyards leading down to the lowest classification – Petite Chablis.
Soil and slope plays a major role in defining the quality of the wine, and the 7 Grand Crus are located on one southwest facing hill overlooking the Chablis town. Each of these 7 Grand Crus vineyards (Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos, Blanchot) are noted for producing wine with particular characteristics.
For example, Bourgros produces the least expressive wine among the 7 Grand Crus, while Les Preuses tends to produce most full bodies wine. Vaudésir is noted for wines with intense flavors and the Grenouilles produces aromatic elegant wines. Valmur produces wine with smooth texture and Blanchot produces the most delicate wine with floral aromas. Of all Grand Cru vineyards, Les Clos tend to produce the most complex wines with minerality, and wine from this Grand Cru also has the best aging potential among all the Chablis.
Ending – the significance of the classification in making wines in Chablis famous and different?
Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Today this historical domaine covers more than 25.5 ha spreading over four appellations from the Petit Chablis up to the Grands Crus. The domaine is principally made up of vineyards obtained over the centuries by 13 generations of the Droin family. Having a total of eight premier crus and five grand crus certainly proved Domaine JeaChablisn-Paul & Benoît Droin’s long history of quality wine making.
In a tradition which has passed unbroken from father to son since 1625, thirty year old Benoît Droin is the 14th generation in the family of wine makers. One of the principal changes Benoît made in recent years was to use less oak in the process of wine making, as compared to his father. This change reflects highly on his philosophy “to accentuate the typicité of each individual wine” in producing wines that reflects individual uniqueness and character.
One of the most notable wines produced by Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin would have to be the 2007 Chablis les Clos. This wine has a very harmonious texture with notes of peaches and greengage plums when uncork. It slowly opens up to show a complex array of spices, fruits and minerality leading up to a striking long finish. This dry and structured wine with impressive cellar potential of 10 years or more and will only show its true potential starting from 2012.
The Hierarchy of Burgundy Appellations
Regionals ACs : At the base of hierarchy. For those wines which can come from anywhere in Burgundy. It will always have a word of “Bourgogne” on the label. For example: “Appellation Bourgogne Contrôlée ”.
District ACs: Those wines which come from anywhere in Burgundy district. For example: Chablis, it will state on the label “Appellation Chablis Contrôlée”.
Commune / Village ACs: At the middle of hierarchy. A village wine is called by the commune name with no reference to specific vineyard. If the vineyard is not recognized as Premier Cru or Crand Cru, the vineyard name will appear on the label, but it must be in smaller word. For example: Vosne – Romanée, it will state on the label “ Aus Réas” in smaller word. “Appellation Vosne-Romanée Contrôlée”.
Single Vineyard ACs: Premier Crus: Comes from the specific vineyard which gained from this status. Premier Crus wines normally state their status on the label. For example: Chablis, it will state on the label “Chablis Premier Cru – Fourchaume” or “Chablis 1er Cru – Fourchaume” and below “Appellation Chablis Premier Cru Contrôlée” .
Single Vineyard ACs: Grand Crus: At the top of hierarchy. Each Grand Cru has its own appellation. For example: Chablis, it will state on the label “Chablis Les Clos” follow by “Appellation Chablis Grand Cru Contrôlée”. But for most of Grand Cru vineyard will never mention their commune on the label, due to the reputations are well established.


